You took your dog out for a fabulous hike and now he is squinting at you with one eye. Nope, he has not learned the cool trick of winking at you. He probably has something in his eye.

The most common presentation of an eye injury is a dog that squints one eye. He may or may not have discharge from the eye. In either case, a squinty eye is a really good reason to go to the veterinarian’s office soon. Many times we find that when Fido was out frolicking in the hills he ran past a plant too fast and some of the plant material embeds in the eye, or the cornea can be scratched. A dog’s eye has not only an eyeball, and conjunctiva (the white part) and eyelid that can be damaged, but he also has a third eyelid that loves to hide foxtails, thorns and small pieces of grass which then rub or penetrate the cornea. A scratch or puncture of the cornea is painful. A full puncture of the cornea can lead to loss of the eyeball if not treated immediately.

Eye injuries of any kind should not be left to see if they get better on their own; an abrasion on the cornea can lead to infection or a thickness in the cornea which greatly reduces your dog’s vision if left untreated. In addition, typically it is quite easy for your veterinarian to remove a foreign body from your dog’s eye without general anesthesia; in most cases a topical anesthetic can be used instead. The benefit of an early treatment with a relatively inexpensive antibiotic far outweighs the potentially costly need for corneal surgery and several follow-up office visits.

So, check your dog over after every hike for ticks and foxtails, and don’t forget to check the face. If you see your pal winking back at you, give your veterinarian a call.

Vaccine clinics may seem like a less expensive alternative to a traditional veterinarian, but there are hidden costs behind the cheap façade.

1. One vaccine protocol does not match all animals. Vaccine clinics do not offer a thorough risk assessment prior to vaccinating. By performing a physical exam and risk assessment a veterinarian may find a reason that your pet should not be vaccinated that day (such as a fever), or at all (possibly an elderly pet), or may require an alternate protocol (such as an indoor cat). At a vaccine clinic your pet may receive an unnecessary vaccine.

2. While it may seem as though one is saving money by foregoing the annual physical, your veterinarian is often able to pick up early signs of disease when issues are treatable. Many times early treatment can save money in the long run.

3. It is always a good idea to maintain a consistent patient-client relationship with your veterinarian. A veterinarian needs to see a patient at least once a year to legally prescribe medications (including refills of therapeutic drugs such as thyroid medication) to your pet. In addition, the better informed your veterinarian is about your pet, the better medical decisions he/she is able to make on your pet’s behalf.

4. Avoid unnecessary services. Many vaccine clinics may offer additional services for which you may never see the results, ie, a fecal test. Sure, it seems quick and easy to pay for a fecal to check for intestinal parasites, but are you really going to take the time out of your weekend to go back to a vaccine clinic that only happens once a month? Statistics bear out that most people will not return to a vaccine clinic with a fecal sample the following month and then you have paid for a test for which you will never receive results. Furthermore, if your pet has been on a consistent schedule of heartworm prevention, then a fecal exam may not be necessary.

Therefore, we feel that your pet and your wallet are best served by going to your veterinarian for routine vaccines and preventative care.

2. Puppies are babies. They need to eat more often and eliminate more often than a full-grown dog. They sleep a lot and play in bursts. Puppies should have three meals a day. Most puppies will need to eliminate every three hours, and also within thirty minutes of eating. Knowing this little fact can help you potty train your puppy. Take your puppy outside thirty minutes after eating, and keep him outside under your supervision until he eliminates. You may want to add a phrase, such as, “Do your business,” when he eliminates. This will train your puppy to go on command when needed. Repetition is the key. It takes about three hundred repetitions for your pet to concretely learn a new command. Therefore, after a couple months, your puppy may have this one down pat.
3. Get your puppy in for a physical exam with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian will be able to set up an appropriate vaccine protocol, perform initial deworming and parasite testing if warranted, check for undescended testicles and umbilical hernias (which can complicate the spay and neuter process), and answer any questions you may have regarding your new puppy.
4. Socialize your puppy. It is really important in the first months of your puppy’s life that he is well socialized with people and other pets. Make sure to introduce him to people of all ages, sizes and shapes. If he shows a marked dislike for a certain person, say a child, you should consult your veterinarian ASAP to nip any behavior issues in the bud. Stay away from dog parks for socialization until your puppy has finished his full vaccine series – usually by the age of sixteen weeks.
5. Get your puppy fully vaccinated. Puppies require a series of vaccines during the first 16 weeks of their lives. Parvo is a potentially life-threatening disease for a puppy and is transmitted through fecal material or contaminated dirt that your puppy ingests. Spending the money on the DHPP vaccine series now can save your puppy and your wallet from a world of hurt down the road. Rabies is a legal requirement as it is a disease that can be passed from your dog to a human through saliva. Your veterinarian can perform a risk assessment to help you decide if your puppy needs other specific vaccines such as Bordetella, Lyme, or Leptospirosis.
6. Handle your puppy. Handle your pet’s muzzle, body paws and ears as much as possible. Getting your puppy used to being touched all over can minimize the stress of having a paw or an ear checked at the veterinary office.
7. Take your puppy to school. Good manners are a must! Teaching your puppy basic commands such as ‘sit’, ‘stay’, ‘off’, ‘come’ and ‘lie down’ are helpful in the clinic, at home or out on the town. In addition, there is usually some puppy playtime and socialization built in to these classes.

There are volumes to be written about puppies, but taking these few steps will definitly make the transition to having a puppy much smoother. Oh, the fun to be had!

1. A Dog’s Life by Peter Mayle

2. If Wishes Were Horses  by Anne McCaffrey

3. Simon’s Cat by Simon Tofield

4. How to be YOur Dog’s Best Friend by the Monks of Newskeet

5. The Art of Racing in the Rain by Garth Stein

6. All Creatures Great and Small by James Herriot

If you suspect your pet has a heavy flea load, not only should he be treated with his flea prevention once a  month, but you should be washing any bedding he sleeps upon weekly, as well as vacuuming any areas he likes to hang out in, weekly, to lessen the flea egg population as well. Be sure to vacuum baseboards and under furniture as well.

In the rare cases where a pet owner suspects the Advantage or Frontline to cause an allergic reaction, these products can be washed off with soap and water. This also means that these products are not entirely waterproof, and will lose efficacy on pets who like to swim. However, we still feel Advantage or Frontline are your best bet at this time for flea prevention.

Permethrin products should never be used on cats, as they are a neurotoxin. Permethrins can even be toxic to cats when placed on a dog inthe same household. Advantage and Frontline are NOT permethrin based products.

And lastly, one fun flea factoid: only 1% to 5% of a flea population are adult fleas. That means there are 95% to 99% of fleas in egg or larval form just lurking in the environment that you cannot even see.

Good luck in the battle against the flea!

It is important to start treating osteoarthritis as soon as possible to slow the progression of the disease. Treatment should begin with a visit to the vet so your pet’s joints can be evaluated via palpation and radiograghs. Some steps to be taken can be simple, such as making sure your pet is at a slender weight, or changing his exercise routine from runs to walks, or getting a folding ramp to get into and out of the car. Other assistance may come in the form of non-steroidal anti-inflammatories (NSAIDS) which will reduce the inflammation in the joints and make your pet more compfortable. There are potential side-effects to NSAIDS, mostly GI and liver issues. Therefore, your pet should have blood work done prior to starting NSAIDS, and will need to be monitored every six months after starting the NSAIDS. You and your vet should discuss which course of action is appropriate for you and your pet.

Information in this post was originally written by Susan G. Wynn DVM, RH (AHG) in her article titled “What Can I Do About My Pet’s Arthritis?”